Macedonia

Thammy Evans lived and worked in Macedonia for five years as political advisor to NATO HQ Skopje. Now she continues to work on development and governance issues at the International Security Sector Advisory Team in Geneva, Switzerland, whilst working on other authoring projects in her spare time. She has written the Bradt Guide to the Great Wall of China, and is currently writing the Bradt Guide to Istria. She has a second home in Croatia.

Macedonia Travel Guide - Holiday tips and expert advice featuring Skopje hotels, cafes and entertainment, ancient historical sites, monasteries and wine tasting. This guide also includes suggested itineraries, walking routes, local culture and cuisine, wildlife and natural history, Tetovo, Lake Ohrid, Treskavic, Kratovo and Monospitovo Wetlands.

A treasure trove of adventures, Macedonia is emerging as a top new tourist destination. With its unspoilt mountains, lakes and spas, traces of old communism, and plenty of friendly home service at boutique ethnic hotels it's not hard to see why. The wines are rich, the history steeped, and the culture varied.

Contents Introduction viii PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3 Ancient roads in Macedonia 5 Climate 7 Flora and fauna 7 Environmental efforts 12 History 14 Government and politics 37 Economy 38 People 39 Language 49 Religion 50 Education 54 Culture 55 Chapter 2 Practical Information 61 When to visit 61 Highlights 61 Suggested itineraries 63 Tour operators 64 Red tape 67 Embassies 68 Getting there and away 70 Maps and tourist information 73 Health 77 Security and safety 86 Women travellers 89 Gay travellers 89 Disabled travellers 89 Travelling with children 90 What to take 91 Money 93 Budgeting 93 Getting around 94 Accommodation 97 Eating and drinking 99 Public holidays and festivals 102 Shopping 104 Arts and entertainment 105 Outdoor pursuits 105 Photography 112 Media and communications 112 Business 114 Buying property 115 Cultural etiquette 116 Interacting with local people 116 Travelling positively 118 PART TWO THE GUIDE 121 Chapter 3 Skopje 123 History 123 Getting there and away 130 Getting around 130 Tourist information 131 Where to stay 134 Where to eat 136 Entertainment and nightlife 139 Shopping 142 Other practicalities 143 What to see 143 Activities 151 Chapter 4 Outside Skopje 153 Where to eat 153 Horseriding 156 Mount Vodno 156 Lake Matka and caves 157 Katlanovska Banja 161 The old stone aqueduct 162 Pantelejmon Monastery 164 Suto Orizari Roma settlement and market 164 Archaeological sites around Skopje 167 Tauresium 168 Markov Monastir 169 Sv Bogorodica Monastery near Kozle 169 Chapter 5 Lake Ohrid and Galicica National Park 171 Ohrid 171 Outside Ohrid 189 Struga 191 Galicica National Park 196 Day trips in the area 196 Chapter 6 Pelagonia, Prespa and Pelister 203 History of the region 203 Bitola 207 Pelister National Park and ecotourism 215 Lake Prespa 220 Prilep 223 Outside Prilep 228 Krusevo 231 Demir Hisar 234 Chapter 7 Polog and Mavrovo 235 Tetovo 235 Popova Sapka ski resort and mountain range 245 Gostivar 247 Mavrovo National Park 250 Debar 252 Outside Debar 257 Kicevo 260 Chapter 8 The Northeast and Middle Vardar 263 Veles 263 Stip 269 Kocani 273 Delcevo 275 Berovo 276 Kumanovo 277 Outside Kumanovo 281 Kriva Palanka 283 Kratovo 286 Outside Kratovo 288 Sveti Nikole 290 Chapter 9 The Southern Wine Region 293 Strumica 293 Outside Strumica 303 Valandovo 308 Wines from the Tikves plains 308 Kavadarci 309 Negotino 310 Stobi 311 Demir Kapija - the Iron Gate 312 Gevgelija 313 Kozuf ski resort and mountain range 315 Lake Dojran 316 Chapter 10 A Dozen Hikes 321 Hiking clubs 322 Mountain hut system 322 Vodno Cross to Matka Dam 324 Marko's Tower to Treskavec Monastery 326 Demir Kapija to Iberlija and Koresnica 328 Oktisi to Vajtos and Vevcani 330 Two Lakes view 332 Rostuse and Duf Waterfall 334 Jance to Galicnik (Wedding Festival) 334 Biljana Waterfalls and Dolna Alilica Cave 336 Titov Vrv 338 Kriva Sija Waterfall 338 Mount Kitka 340 Brajcino to Pelister Lakes and Nizepole 341 Appendix 1 Language 343 Appendix 2 Glossary of Terms and Names 357 Appendix 3 Guide to Wines of Macedonia 359 Appendix 4 Further Information 361 Index 372