Sewing Techniques

Jennifer Prendergast

Sewing techniques are sometimes overlooked in the design process but acquiring these skills can be transformational. The ability to turn a two-dimensional design into its three-dimensional realization comes from having mastered basic sewing techniques. Sewing Techniques simplifies the often complex techniques that lie behind this process by arming designers with the precise information and skills needed to undertake each task.Designers who develop a basic understanding of the processes involved in sample and garment construction often produce successful outcomes based on a more experimental and creative approach applied during the product development process. Developing a sample folio and being able to refer to samples and develop them according to each individual design project is a process that requires experimentation and creative thought underpinned by a basic understanding of sewing techniques. This book explores the essential equipment needed - from fabric types to diagrams identifying component parts of a sewing machine, to machine operation.Throughout each process, clear diagrams accompanied by explanatory description panels allow readers to achieve the best possible results, including how to troubleshoot problems that may be encountered before and during sewing. Each section concludes with a project, progressing from easy to challenging. Fabrics for each project give designers the opportunity to handle different fabric types and understand the complexities of sourcing and selecting. Mastering the basic principles covered in Sewing Techniques will enable both fashion students and the contemporary craftworker to develop their techniques with a view to becoming creative practice-based professionals.

Explores the work of contemporary fashion practices through case studies and interviews, including Elie Saab, Funmilayo Deri and Ada Zanditon

Chapter one: PlanningPlanning the projectEssential equipmentLockstitchMachine accessories/ lockstitch needleSewing threadsActivity 1: Basic seamsTroubleshootingInterview 1: Mada Van GaansChapter two: PreparationDesign interpretationCrucial measurementsShapingFabric types and selectionPressing and steamingSample folioActivity 2: Needle controlActivity 3: Curved seamsTroubleshootingInterview 2: Ada ZanditonChapter three: ClosuresZipsButtons and buttonholesHooks and eyes and press studsSample portfolio - recording/reviewing the processActivity 4: Inserting a zip into a seamTroubleshootingInterview 3: Jonathan JepsonChapter four: Professional finishingBehind the scenesInterview 3: Yvonne LinInterview 4: Emma HardstaffInterview 5: Funmilayo DeriInterview 6: Louise BennettsCase study 1: Elie SaabChapter five: Toile/muslin/prototype developmentFit model/mannequin/formForm and silhouetteGarment balanceMaking alterationsDeconstruction and reconstructionDeveloping your own portfolioTextureDartsSleevesCollars and cuffsPocketsCase study 2: Victoria WhittakerInterview 7: Léa PeckreChapter six: Innovation within industryIntroduction to technologyTechnology vs. traditional methodsFuture textilesConclusion; Glossary of sewing terms; Online resources; Bibliography; Index;Acknowledgements and picture credits