The Hidden History of American Fashion

Deihl, Nancy
Nancy Deihl is Director of the Costume Studies MA program at New York University, USA, specializing in the history of fashion and textiles from 1850 to the present. Deihl is co-author, with Daniel James Cole, of The History of Modern Fashion (2015).

This book is the first in-depth exploration of the revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years and helped build an industry with global impact, yet have been largely forgotten. Focusing on female designers, the authors reclaim a place in history for the women who created not only for celebrities and socialites, but for millions of fashion-conscious customers across the United States.

From one of America's first couturiers, Jessie Franklin Turner, to Zelda Wynn Valdes, the book captures the lost histories of the luminaries who paved the way in the world of American fashion design.

This fully illustrated collection takes us from Hollywood to Broadway, from sportswear to sustainable fashion, and explores important crossovers between film, theater, and fashion. Uncovering fascinating histories of the design pioneers we should know about, the book enlarges the prevailing narrative of fashion history and will be an important reference for fashion students, historians, costume curators, and fashion enthusiasts alike.

This is the first in-depth consideration of the first generation of revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years, yet who have been largely forgotten from fashion history.

List of Illustrations
List of Contributors
Introduction, Nancy Deihl
I. Design Innovators
1. Jessie Franklin Turner: An Intimate Affair, Jan Glier Reeder
2. Virginia Woods Bellamy: The Poet as Knitter, Ann W. Braaten and Susan M. Strawn
3. Tina Leser: Global Vision, April Calahan
4. Sandra Garratt: Modular Clothing, Daniel James Cole

II. Developing an Industry
5. Marion McCoy and Pauline Fracchia: Mid-20th-century Originators, Jean L. Parsons and Sara B. Marcketti
6. Fira Benenson: The People's Countess, Michael Mamp
7. Helen Lee and Suzanne Godart: Chic For Children, Jennifer Farley Gordon and Sara B. Marcketti
8. Nicki "Catherine Scott" Ladany: Chicago's Empress of Fashion, Adam MacPharlain
9. Jean Wright: the "real" Lilli Ann, Hannah Schiff
10. Mollie Parnis: Tastemaker, Annette Becker
11. Elizabeth "Libby" Payne: Designing for Mrs. Main Street America, Caroline A. Surrarrer and Catherine Amoroso Leslie
12. Ruth Finley's Fashion Calendar, Natalie Nudell
III. Hollywood, Broadway, and Seventh Avenue
13. Viola Dimmitt: Los Angeles Entrepreneur, Shelly Foote
14. Kiviette: Star Performer, Dilia López-Gydosh
15. Zelda Wynn Valdes: Uptown Modiste, Nancy Deihl
16. Vicky Tiel: A Couturière in Paris, Lourdes Font
Bibliography
Index